Crown Jewel

It takes quite a few days of very cold weather to freeze a waterfall. Lucky for us we got our ice climbing conditions a bit earlier than normal this year in the Columbia River Gorge. There was no messing around at Mist Falls (often mistakenly referred to by some, including myself, as Benson Lake Icefall) this year. With conditions this perfect it was time to go for the gold, or more accurately, the Jewel.

Rob was done with classes for the term so we sent him out on a scouting expedition on Wednesday. He forgot his camera of course but spent the day sending photos via text message to Ian and I while we were at work. That was all I could take. I put in for an emergency vacation day and Thursday morning we drove out to the climb. Upon arrival we could see the climb from I-84. We parked and then walked across the frozen water to get to the tracks and finally the climb on the other side.


There it is, Crown Jewel. 300ft of high quality WI 3 a half hour drive and a 15 minute walk from the center of Portland. Crown point is the peak in the background and the old Columbia Gorge Highway goes up to the Vista House on top.


Gearing up for the climb. The nice part about a party of three is that you get one belayer an one photographer. Thanks to Rob and Ian for also taking photos.


About 10 feet up the climb I managed to throw my left crampon. I have the step in kind and I must not have clicked it over the rand very well. I was forced to place my first screw balancing on one foot. Once that was in I was able to fix my crampon and it stayed secure the rest of the climb.


We actually had two parties ahead of us due to our mid-morning start. One party of two was probably topped out already at this point. The other was another party of three. You can see the bottom two guys on the ledge to the left. Not wanting to climb directly below them I climbed the right side of the fall and then traversed over to the belay ledge.


Here I am high on lead. The conditions that day were perfect. The ice was firm but not too brittle, the route was steep but I was actually surprised how often I was able to get in a good screw placement. WI-3 is about my comfort level leading on ice. The route felt challenging but not overwhelming. I went up slowly and methodically and actually managed to enjoy myself.


The one thin part and the crux of the whole climb was crossing from the right side of the flow over to the ledge on the left. You can see that darker section just to my left in the photo, the ice was not very thick at that point and my tools hit rock more than once.


Ian following my line. He looks un-roped but that is not the case. I lead the climb using a set of twin 8mm lines designed for ice climbing. The leader must use them both as twin lines but they are alright for followers to use as top rope lines. It is possible to belay both climbers at once but on the first pitch this was impractical due to the party ahead of us. Ian followed up first, removing the screws and un-clipping both ropes.


Ian just before the traverse. The first pitch ended up being about 100ft. The ledge off the the left side was relatively large and flat. It also had two large bolted anchors in the rock on the far side of the climb.


Ian making his way to the first belay ledge.


I don't know if anyone took many photos on pitch two. If so, please send them in. I offered the lead to Rob or Ian but they both respectfully declined. It was about 180ft of sheer joy. It started out pretty seep off the ledge and then after a while it became a series of seep sections and terraces that led to the top of the climb. We knew it was going to be close on rope but Rob gave me the 20ft left signal about the time I hit the top. At this point I had numerous trees to set up an anchor from. This time I was able to belay them as they came up at the same time. This is Ian topping out on the second pitch. His pack may look exceptionally large but it simply contains three down jackets and so weighed very little.


At this point we had the option of raping off the anchors or continuing up. With two ropes we could have made it down in two rappels, one from the trees and one from the bolts. Instead we opted to continue up about another 300ft of elevation gain along the creek. It was more fun than anticipated. It would be relatively flat for a while and then we would come to a 10 or 15 foot seep section. We coiled the ropes and soloed up the rest of the of the climb.


Ian and Rob soloing the WI 2 at the top of the stream. After this we followed the drainage right up to the vista house on the old gorge highway. The guidebook mentioned options for descent were either rappelling or a descent gully. I recommend the third option which was standing around the vista house, ice screws dangling from your waist with a confused look on your face and convincing a couple of cute girls taking photos of you to give you a ride back down the old highway to your car off 84.

Vegas Once Again

It's not very difficult to convince me to go on a climbing trip to Red Rocks. So when a friend from Norway has a stopover in LA on her way back from Australia, Mike has a three day weekend and tickets are less than $200 round trip from Portland I can easily find myself in Vegas for a four day weekend. This time, early October proved to be perfect weather.

This is Inga. You may remember her from previous blog posts involving Norwegians, New Zealand and a Pacific NW climbing tour. You would not know from this photo but I'm sure she's a big jet lagged. After just arriving in the states from Australia the day before I was somehow able to get her up and put enough coffee in her system to convince her to climb nine pitches on her first route at Red Rocks.


Cloud tower is one of the most prominent features in Red Rocks. That's it in the center of the photo, above the pyramid shaped rocks below. That huge wall lurking in the background is Rainbow wall. It has a four hour approach that makes the Death Slabs approach to half dome look tame. I've done it twice, in one day, and managed to spend two days on the wall, but that's a story for another time. The hike to the base of the tower is no picnic either, it looks a heck of a lot closer from the road than it really is and there is serious elevation to gain. A bit over an hour though and you've sweated your way up.


Back to Cloud Tower, this photo was taken in the fading light on our way out. Our objective was Crimson Chrysalis, a nine pitch 5.8 that ranks among one of the most stellar lines I have ever climbed in terms of sheer enjoyment. On a Saturday in October it was bound to be crowded, so instead of getting up at the crack of dawn and waiting in line we decided to give everyone else a head start and hoped to be on route by noon.


Yep, those are people still quite low on the route folks. We arrived at about 11:00am and there were still parties on pitches one and two. I can NEVER win on this route. So we decided to give them an hour and were in luck, the lower party of Brits was not feeling it and decided to descend, we got our start just after noon with only one party ahead of us, by about four pitches.


Inga took the odd pitches, I took the even ones. I've done this climb a few times but I never remember which ones I've lead. Every pitch is either 5.7 or 5.8 though, there are plenty of good cam placements and when you run out of those there are bolts galore.


Inga leading up pitch seven. By this time we were in our groove and moving like the wind. We caught up to a couple of guys from Tennessee at the belay on top of pitch seven. I would like to thank Hans Florine for the advice in his book "Climb On" on passing other parties which worked so well. We were obviously climbing faster than the other party but politely asking rather than stating you are going to pass always helps. We approached them moving quickly to the belay stance and they were happy for a cigarette break. But the golden nugget was the shiny new #1 C4 Camalot they had left in a crack below which I managed to dislodge and return to them.


I linked the last two pitches to get us past the other party faster and because I heard that there were girls in bikini's serving drinks up top. Hey, it's Vegas after all, right? Reguardless, I wouldn't reccomend linking the last two pitches to anyone, the drag at the end was horrible.


We did, however, land a respectable time on the route. 3:15 for nine pitches and almost 1,000 feet of elevation gain. Not too shabby.


Inga rapping off on the twin 8mm lines, a must have. Thanks again Mikey for the couches, the ropes and for letting us climb with you.


Finishing off our series of rappells, it's a lot. We did manage to get the ropes stuck on the very last pull but with a little skill and a lot of luck I was able to get the rope down to the ground. We made it back to the car before dark, but exhausted from our first full day of climbing.


This was not a trip of early starts. If both Inga and I were tired from our plane rides the first morning, our excuse the second was twofold. One, it was a sport climbing day and two Mike was hungover. Ahh, Vegas.


I have spent most of my sport climbing adventures at the first and second pullouts, so has Mike. But after living in Vegas the Magic bus and the Gallery were the LAST places he wanted to go. The cool thing about hanging out with a local though is that you get taken to all the cool, uncrowded spots. And so we found ourselves wandering around the sandstone quarry.


Mike had a number of projects ranging from 5.10 to 5.12. This one was somehwere in the middle and a spectacular climb.


Mike working through one of his projects.


Mike at the base of another project, this one 12a. He was more than a bit dissapointed upon arriving realizing that the draws that had been fixed on there as recently as a few weeks ago had dissapeared. Still, I have to give him credit for climbing it anyway.


A cool looking rock wall, 'nuf said.



The excuse we had for a late start on day three was the huge buffet dinner a the Billagio and the dollar MGD's at Casino Royal the night before. Still, it was a fufilling day. I got on two new routes that I had never been on before and they are now among my favorites. It's hard to tell from this photo where they are but they are on the rightish side of Mescalito. For reference, Cat in the Hat is around to the left and Dark Shadows is on the right but we didn't climb either one of those. We headed straight for Y2K and The Next Century. Y2K is technically a four pitch climb but the third pitch is a 5.4 traverse and the fourth just didn't look so good. The first two were spectacular. I lead the first, which was mostly 5.8 with an intimidating 5.10b roof. The roof was a one move wonder and bolted so it wasn't that bad. The second pitch Inga lead and that was a blast too.
Feeling cool and confident on Y2K we talked each other into The Next Century. This time Inga took the first pitch, a fun 5.8 lieback and I had the second, which was one of the most incredible 160ft of climbing I have done in all my life. The crux was right off the bat, a 10.d slab protected by two bolts. It was lower angle but holds were few and far between. It was all I could do to remind myself to breathe. Then comes some moderate 5.10 climbing with a few nuts and small cams for good measure, one more bolt through what the book called "10c Wild". Inga was a bit confused on what this would mean, I don't think it could have been described better. The thin nut placements continue past one more bolt to the final crux, a 10c reach. Thankfully I'm tall, but it was still a stretch for me. Some thin, balancy high stepping to tiny pockets got me to the anchors. I managed to flash the pitch and Inga did just as well following. Those two routes made for a spectacular day.


Mike had to work on our fourth day, a Tuesday and really we had no excuse for a late start other than out of sheer habbit. It was a bit of a windy day so we found ourselves in the Black Corridor with everyone else. The cool thing about the corridor is that there is an incredible amount of 5.10 climbs in one spot. We had a blast putting up route after route and made some good friends along the way.


I manged to get the redpoint on Rebel Without a Pause again. Inga is pictured following the climb. I've done it before but last time it was only rated 5.11a, the new guide has it now at 5.11b. I don't think it matters though, it's a head trip and a one move wonder but a fun climb all the same. My personal beta is to make the big move BEFORE clipping the bolt. It's a bit more exposed but a lot less pumpy that way.
We also made some new friends. Julia and Lauren from Wyoming were on a road trip and happilly shared some climbs with us. Things couldn't have worked out better meeting them too. I had to fly out that Tuesday night and Inga was able to climb and camp with them and even get a ride to the airport on Thursday. Hope you ladies had fun!

Castle Crags

We've all driven by it on I-5. After winding our way down through the pass and stopping at the California agricultural checkpoint we start to see Mt. Shasta to the east. But to those of us who climb, it's hard not to notice another prominent feature visible if only for a few minutes to the west. The granite spires of castle crags dominate the skyline, if only momentarily, but long enough to make us wonder. And we say to ourselves, one of these days, we'll go there and we drive on to our destination. But this time, we stopped.

Labor Day weekend is usually hot and crowded. But as the entire Pacific Northwest was covered in gray clouds and rain we drove south. After spending the night on the pass we woke up the next morning, left the Explorer in the State Park and packed in three days worth of food and climbing gear for the four of us. After a short, but arduous hike uphill found ourselves almost alone, lost in the spires of the poorly documented and rarely climbed wilderness.


Our first view of the granite spires from the trail.


Finding a place to camp was going to be tricky. We wanted to be far enough up the trail that it made packing everything in worthwhile, but also had to be close enough to a water source to survive the weekend. Lucky for us we found the perfect site. As the main trail starts to get steep and switch back another trail heads off to the left ending at a spring bubbling out from the rocks. Within this V shaped opening between the trails we found a nicely hidden, yet surprisingly accessible campsite. This was the climbers bivouac site for sure, and Jodie, Graham, Casey and myself had it all to ourselves.


By a bit past noon we had found our campsite, slung our food in the trees (this was black bear country) and went off to do a bit of climbing. Graham and Casey were feeling a bit more adventurous and went for about a 6 pitch 5.11. Jodie and I felt like a warm up and got used to the rock by climbing a three pitch 5.8 ending in a particularly tricky off width.


Views from the top.


Jodie following up the rounded off width section.


Rappelling. In a more remote climbing area such as this, it's helpful to have a few extra slings and rap rings.


Sunday was going to be a no-nonsense, get'r'done climbing day for me, and for Graham and I that put only one thing on the agenda, Castle Dome. The most common route is on the west ridge, but that was not our plan of attack. We had our eyes on the huge, Southeast face more commonly known as The Dike Route. Eight pitches and a rating of 10d.


The most complicated part of the climb could easily have been the approach. We had to backtrack down to the lookout from our campsite and then follow another trail upstream. At the merge in trails we met another team of three who were to climb the more standard 5.8 route but would take an entirely different, more well traveled approach. An hour later we found ourselves at the base of a giant slot canyon, castle dome still looming far above our heads. If there was a trail up those slabs we certainly didn't find it. We cursed either the loose rock on the slabs or the endless amounts of manzanita bushes lining the undergrowth and spewing pollen as we clambered through.


Somehow, a few hours later, we managed to gain the gully leading up to the climb. There we stood, taking account of our water supply, the time we had and finding our wits. Graham and I have been climbing together for a long time. We are used to climbing big walls where the only retreat might be up and over. For some reason looking up at those two roofs it was hard for us to really take stock of the difficulty of the route. Maybe it was the lack of a crack system and the unknown protection or runout through the dikes, maybe it was the wilderness environment, but it took us just a little longer than usual to commit that morning.


When we finally did, the climbing started out alright. A little balancy, a little more friction and less protection than we were used to, but alright. Graham lead the first pitch of 5.9. It was 12:45 and we had at least eight full pitches to climb as well as a descent to find before dark.


I took the second and it too was some runout friction. We started to make up time as we headed for the first of two roofs. I don't have a photo of the first roof but that was the make or break point for us, if we coulnd't get over that, we weren't going to be able to do the route. It wasn't pretty but Graham managed to lead us up and over and again our pace quickened.


One of my most mentally taxing pitches was about 80 feet and four bolts. No other crack, seem or othewise allowed me to place any gear. It was 10a and thankfully the rubber on my shoes managed to stick to the wall as I made it up one more pitch.


Graham smiling with Mount Shasta in the background. Above us looms our second roof, pitch five was the crux pitch at 5.10d.


Graham making his way up the dike below the roof. It took a few minutes time to locate the well placed but hard to see bolt.


Nice moves Graham, swinging over the roof.


As I followed Graham over the second roof I knew the rest of the route was going to be fine, the climbing got easier and the route more readable. We had made it through the crux.


Graham following up one of the final pitches.


Summit Photo! Minutes after we made the summit we met up with the team of three we had met earlier that day. They had also made it up there route and joned us at the summit. One of them was even an OSU student from Corvallis. Thanks for the photo guys!


All we knew abou the hike down was that it was over and to the left. That was from the arrow labled "descent" in the guidebook.


Thankfully, it wasn't that bad. It seemed a bit exposed at times but a system of ledges and terraces took us down the granite slabs back to the trail. From there it was an easy hike back to camp, which we made before dark, and where we celebrated with a little well earned single malt I managed to pack in.


The weather was still great on Monday but I was pretty spent from the day before. On the reccomendation of Jodie and Casey, Graham and I climbed Six Toe Crack.


Graham leading the first pitch of 5.8.


Graham following my second pitch. Why do I always get the offwidth? Thanfully I had my boat anchor of a cam, a #4 BD that I carried all the way in with me.


Parting shot of Castle Dome. What a trip. We hiked out Monday and headed to Wild River Brewery in Grant's pass for some good pizza and pints. Then it was back up I-5 and home. Too bad it rained all weeekend in the Northwest, can't say I missed it though.

Summer fun at Ozone

Thanks to the fabulous weekend weather we have been having in the Pacific Northwest, I have been spending many weekends cragging around the greater Portland metro area. My favorite spot this summer would have to be Ozone, on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge along Washington Highway 14.


Jake belaying from a comfy tree.


Rach starting up Kamikaze from the old tree.



After some good climbing on Chain Mail we got bold and Casey tried to put up The MD Route.
The guidebook says 5.11+ and the crux was at least that hard as no one managed to make it to the fourth bolt.



I tried about three times as well but wasn't getting anywhere either. The falls were clean and it was fun though. Thanks Jake for literally hanging out and being a patient camera man.

The Oslo Pass

The Oslo Pass is a 24 hour all inclusive pass that allows the bearer to use all forms of public transit including streetcars, subways, buses, ferries and the underground. It also allows entrance to all the museums and exhibits in the city. It was a perfect way to visit Oslo for the day.


Getting off at the Oslo central station you can easily walk down the main street to the King's palace at the far end. If you are lucky you will see the changing of the guard as they march to the palace.


The King's Palace.



More entertaining than the secret service who just stand on the white house roof looking through the scopes of their sniper rifles. Then again, we don't have a king.


This must be someone rather important as he has been immortalized in this statue.


Ships in the Oslo fjiord.


Pathway up to Akershus Castle. This is the first castle I have ever been to and I was really excited. It was defiantly cool.


Akershus Castle courtyard. The castle was built in the 1290's and sits on the Edge of the Oslo Fjiord overlooking the port. The fortress was strategically important for the capital, and therefore, Norway as well. Whoever ruled Akershus fortress ruled Norway. Unfortunately that also included the Nazi's during WWII. On the castle grounds there is also a Norwegian resistance museum wich I visited as well.


Previous rulers of Norway, an important Norwegian King and his Queen are entoumbed here.


Deck the halls.


This is a castle, isn't it? There are tapestries?


Just in case someone needs to have a duel?


I was incredibly excited about my planned route around Oslo that day which included a ferry ride from the castle to a peninsula where the viking ships were. On the map it appeared I would have a perfect shot of the castle from the water. Unfortunately the largest, most extravagant cruise ship I have ever encountered was docked right in front, blocking my view.


One of three recovered viking ships. These were burred on land with important people on board. (I thought Vikings burned their ships in funerals.)


Another sad thing I learned about Vikings is that they most likely did not have horns on their helmets. I think sometimes I like history better the made up way, just like Hagar the Horrible.